Michael Michaud Looks Back on 25 Years of Winemaking in the Chalone Appellation

Michael Michaud has more experience in making wine from the mountainous Chalone Appellation than anyone. In fact, his relationship with the region spans 25 years and encompasses nearly all the modern history of winemaking there.

The remote section of Monterey County east of the Salinas Valley is best known for the Pinnacles National Monument Park, a towering range of crags and peaks formed by the ancient collision and subsequent subduction of the Pacific Plate by the North American tectonic plate.

This produced a rare combination of decomposed granite and limestone, perfect for wine grapes, providing ideal drainage to the roots and imparting mineral flavors to the fruit.

Following, in this first of three parts, Michael looks back on the early years, 1979 -1984, the successes, set-backs, challenges and milestones in establishing the rugged region as a premier viticultural region. His story will continue in subsequent editions.

When I graduated from UC Davis in 1979 with a BS degree in Chemistry I asked my friend and fellow classmate Randall Graham if he had any leads on jobs. Graham told me about Richard Graff and Chalone Vineyards in Monterey County. I hadn't heard of it and had no idea winegrapes were being grown there. Probably out of desperation - the winery is very remote - Richard hired me on the condition that I could start right away. I had just graduated from UC Davis with a BS in Chemistry and was just a few credits away from my oenology degree but I figured that real experience would be worth more than a degree so I left UC Davis and joined Chalone Vineyards as assistant winemaker at Chalone Winery under winemakers Richard and Peter Graff. It was a good move for me. At the time, the Chalone Winery was a pretty freewheeling place, an outpost of winemaking in an otherwise hostile environment. It was completely off the PG&E electrical grid, with no telephone and without a dependable water supply. Dick Graff had chosen the site for its ability to produce complex, minerally wines in the style of great Burgundies and he spared no effort in pursuing that style at Chalone. I was in my element. These were the style of wines I preferred personally and the kind of wines I hoped to make myself one day. From the first harvest, I fell in love with the dry, rugged landscape and the cooling fogs that spill in from Monterey Bay. I quickly became aware of the unique micro-climate's affect on the grapes and I learned first-hand how Graff's Burgundian winemaking techniques brought out the finest qualities in them.

A Hitchcock film? No, just some really hungry birds eyeing Michael's prime (but carefully netted) grapes.

The 1980 harvest was very small but with very concentrated fruit. At the time Chalone had 110 planted acres of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Pinot Blanc and Chenin Blanc grapes. In exploring the region I became so taken with it that I decided to start looking for my own place. Eventually I found a small 10-acre parcel of land with a decrepit house on it. In 1981, with a group of friends that included Professor Ann Noble of UC Davis, we planted the first vines, Pinot Blanc from cuttings of the Chalone 1946 planting, establishing Michaud Vineyard.

In 1982 the Chalone Appellation received official designation as an American Viticultural Area (AVA). It was a good growing season that year yielding a very good quality harvest. I began taking over more of the winemaking duties and Chalone wines continued to win acclaim and popularity. Meanwhile, at my place, we had a severe storm which blew away a two-hole outhouse. I should have seen it as an omen because soon after, a neighbor decided to close road access on his side of the fence. That forced me to use an all terrain vehicle to transport groceries and propane to my house. Despite the isolation, when an adjacent 40 acre parcel adjacent came up for sale, I was eager to get it.

1983 was a wet year at the Pinnacles and the year Dick Graff named me winemaker. A large Chalone harvest yielded better than expected fruit with good aging potential. Winter storms washed out a road crossing at Lopez Canyon so we built a temporary bridge of 2x12s to span the 10x15 foot hole in the road to my property. In the spring, after major road repairs, heavy rains again washed out the driveway. We buried a ‘58 Buick to stop the erosion and that's been holding pretty well ever since.

1984 was a big year for me. In addition to my duties as winemaker, I became general manager of Chalone. In the new position, I had the opportunity to supervise the construction of Chalone's wine caves that summer. It was also the year that Chalone Vineyards became a publicly traded company. The harvest was small after a cool growing season.

The year is especially notable as I met my future wife, Carol Hastings, at the Monterey Wine Festival. Out at the vineyard, we cleared and ripped 15 acres in preparation for more planting. While doing the work we found a huge rattlesnake with its front half stuck deep in a gopher hole. Despite the rattlesnakes, scorpions, coyotes and the occasional mountain lion when another 217 acres of adjacent land became available I bought that, too.

To be continued …

The People Behind the Wines

It might be called Michaud Vineyard but there are people whose names are not on the label con- tributing so much to the success of the wines.In the first of the series we introduce you to;

Edrulfo Augustin - Vineyard Keeper

The Lone Ranger has Tonto, Batman has Robin and Michael Michaud has Edrulfo Augustin. Like his fictional counterparts, Edrulfo is often enough the guy whose hard work, dedication and practical thinking has gotten the hero out of trouble.

Edrulfo came to Monterey County from the Philippines and worked in the Salinas Valley “…doing everything,”he says,“cutting asparagus, bunching onions, anything.” He began working at Chalone Vineyard in 1989 and met Michael,who was wine maker there at the time. They hit it off right away and when Michael began his own vineyard, he hired Edrulfo on as his first, and for a long time, only employee.

“I don't know why he picked me,”Eldrufo says modestly. Not given to many words, the solitude of the vineyard is ideal for his quiet personality.“I would like to live out there if I could. Every time of year there is something to do.”And he's involved with all areas of the vineyard work,“…pruning, tying, harvest. I repair the irrigation and trellis, do weeding, planting and budding. Anything there is to do.”Asked why he likes vineyard work he says, “I know it now, after so many years, I know what to do and when to do it. I'm comfortable with it. And I like the beauty of the mountains and vineyards. Most of the time it is very quiet and peaceful here and I can just do my work.”

Michaud Vineyard Wine Club

Become a Charter Member Now and Enjoy Exclusive Benefits

Convenience – Let's face it, we're all busy these days and you might not have time to run out to buy some Michaud wine before the company comes for dinner, the next holiday arrives or you just want to kick back and relax by yourself. When you join our wine club, you'll automatically receive shipments of our highly acclaimed wines* and you can choose the membership that best fits your needs.

Club Pack – Each spring, for just $400 we'll ship you a mixed case (4 bottles of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, and 2 bottles of Sangiovese and Syrah). We'll even pay the shipping. And if you sign up by July 1, 2004, we'll send you 1 free bottle of 1998 Chardonnay. You save a total of $123.00.

6-Pack –Each spring and fall, we'll ship you a 6-pack sampler (2 bottles of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, and 1 bottle of Sangiovese and Syrah). You'll be charged $210 for each shipment (includes shipping) for a savings of $35.

2-Pack –Each spring, we'll send you 2 bottles of Chardonnay ($76) and each fall 2 bottles of Pinot Noir ($84). We'll pay the shipping so you save a total of 20%.

Availability – Because we're a small vineyard, our wines are produced in limited quantities but you'll have access to all of our wines, no matter how limited the release.

Additional savings –On all case purchases, you'll receive a 20% discount.

Free gifts – We'll send you a free magnum of 1999 Chardonnay when you buy 3 or more cases per year.

And lots more.

For more information about additional benefits or to sign up as a charter member of the Michaud Vineyard wine club, call 650-529-0973.

*All wines shipped are current release and shipping charges are calculated based on shipments within CA. Shipping costs outside of CA to reciprocal states will be slightly higher. Shipments within CA are subject to an 8.25% sales tax.

Current Releases

To Order call 650-529-0973 or visit www.michaudvineyard.com

2000 Chardonnay –A youthful charmer, this well focused wine showcases a great vintage. The appellation's characteristic terroir frames bright nectarine, peach and apricot flavors. Well balanced, rich and multi-layered, with fresh acidity, it complements a wide array of food. $40

2001 Pinot Noir –Pinot Noir has a long proven track record in this appellation. Nine of my favorite Pinot Noir clones bring rich complexity and black cherry, blackberry and black currant flavors to this wine. Mineral flavor from our unique soil and a hint of smokiness round out this elegant wine. Drink now or cellar for added enjoyment. $45

2001 Sangiovese – This grape variety seems to like this appellation. This half-acre of vines was planted eight years ago and produces a wine with elegant red cherry, pomegranate and cranberry flavors, moderate tannins and nicely balanced acidity. We like it with swordfish tacos, pizza and pasta. $29

2002 Syrah – We planted a few cuttings of a rare selection of Syrah in 1988 and propagated it to two acres planted in 1999. Syrah seems to thrive in this appellation. The sparse mineral laden soil restrains Syrah's natural vigor and produces smaller clusters .The wine from these vines is very dark, supple and substantial in weight on the palate. Moderate, silky tannins surround flavors of blueberry, black cherry and blackberry. A pleasant mineral-earthiness and restrained oak complement the flavors and extend the harmonious finish. $35

Library Releases

1998 Chardonnay – Drinking beautifully now, the wine has just begun to hit its stride. The fruit is still very much on center stage, complemented by a well-integrated mineral core and subtle oak and spice. Rich and substantial, with many layers of flavor, it retains refreshing acidity and a great lengthy finish. $45

1999 Chardonnay – This wine has become quite accessible in the last 6 months, yet it retains its bright youthful fruit .Its rich weightiness is counterbalanced with a pleasant crispness and a friendly grip. A long satisfying finish follows. Watch it unfold. $20 (375 ml)

Prices do not include shipping. We may ship only to the following states: AL, AK*, CA, DC, ID, IL, IA, MN*, MO*, NH, NM, VA, WA, WV, WI, WY or where solicitation and shipment is permitted. An adult signature is required at time of delivery. During hot weather, we will contact you if three day shipping is necessary. *Some restrictions.

Recent Reviews of Our Wines

Michaud Vineyard 2001 Pinot Noir
“Here is an example of passion and devotion. You'd have to drive to the vineyard to understand the full story. We are pleased to present to you Michael Michaud's coveted baby. He was the winemaker at Chalone for many years. Benefiting from an unusual limestone soil condition, the wine shows its crushed rock characteristic but also reveals black cherry and raspberries flavors. The two assets you'll get from this wine are its ageability and its power against foods like duck and mushrooms.”
Novusvinum.com - October 20, 2003
Wine Pick of the Week

Michaud Vineyard Pinot Noir 2001
“Deep, ruby purple color, bit closed, some stewed plum and cherry aromas; deep, concentrated cherry flavors, a lot of structure, spicy notes and sweet oak dominate the long finish. Big, forward style with complexity and concentration. Michael Michaud spent years as winemaker at Chalone Vineyard. He knows the land and it shows in his wines. A Pinot producer to watch.” 92 pts.
Pinot Report - December 2003

Michaud Vineyard 2001 Syrah
“Good, bright ruby. Varietally expressive aromas of black fruits, violet and licorice. Sweet, lush and nicely balanced, with flavors of dark raspberry, violet and spicy oak. Finishes with slightly dry tannins and a flavor of mocha.
International Wine Cellar - Steve Tanzer - January/February 2004

Michaud Vineyard 2001 Syrah
“This is a wonderful Syrah that brings to mind the rich Hermitages of the Northern Rhone. It's dense in the mouth, with layers of cherry-berry fruit accented with peppery spices. Brilliant and evocative. Cellar Selection.”-S.H .92 pts.
Wine Enthusiast/Buying Guide -October 2003

2000 Michaud Vineyard Chardonnay
Whistle and say “nice structure ”for this one. Rich and full, with green apple, pear, cinnamon, coriander and vanilla flavors with touches of earth and talc and tangy acidity.
Top 100 Wines - San Francisco Chronicle Magazine - December 7,2003